Old Friends, New Habits

Good Morning.

I hope everyone had a lovely weekend. Mine was good. I bumped into an old friend of mine that I haven't spent time with since sophomore year (you know we speak and keep it cordial...but doing real friend stuff...no). Purely by accident we ended up going to a beauty event that you could purchase beauty products for dirt cheap prices( by invite only). I'm talking MAC shadows, gloss, eyeliners, and foundations no more than $3!! After we finished there, I still wasn't satisfied with my new fix of product purchases, so then we went to Target. I finally got to see the new felt tip eyeliner developed by Pat Mcgrath before she left Proctor and Gamble.

Ok, so I am swimming this morning as usual...and someone stops me and tells me that my form is incorrect because I am bending my legs. For as long as I have been swimming, I never knew that when you swim, you use a scissor-like motion. I always flapped my feet and bent my legs. WHO KNEW??!?! I proceeded to try to correct this and ladies.....it was so hard. I was flapping and flopping like someone who didn't know how to swim!! So embarrassing!! I didn't give up, and needless to say I still have some improvement to do....lol. This ties into how we form bad beauty habits, like using a black liner around the mouth and filling in with red lipstick ( I must admit that I was a victim of this in 7th grade...I even took a school picture like this). Or taking your finger and applying eyeshadow without a base.

This is merely to say, if you are unhappy with the results of your beauty routine...take a step back and watch exactly what you are doing. If your eyeshadow is creasing at the end of the day, use a base. Eye liner smearing, when you apply to your waterline...use a powder to set it. Just like someone was watching me swim today, someone is always watching you. Someone else can see what you do not, so getting someone that you trust to tell you the truth (not a friend, because they can lie to spare feelings) could be of benefit. Everyone wants to look and feel their best all the time, so just take a moment to make sure that you are doing everything you need to in order to accomplish this.

Be sure to take a moment and take the quiz...also post comments or questions!!!

BROWsing

Happy Monday!!!


My weekend was very relaxed and fulfilling. I went to Sephora to see if they had anything new, then went off to show my friend how to tweeze and shape her brows. I headed over with my bag filled with Tweerman tweezers (the kind with the sharp, pointed tip), concealer, brow pencil, MAC 266 angled brush, small scissors, brow gel, alcohol, hydrocortisone cream and clean mascara wands. The look on her face was hilarious, when I knocked on her door and she saw how many tools that I had. I had come prepared to do brow reconstructive surgery!! LOL!! Paying someone else to wax your brows isn't always necessary. I learned this when the wax left me looking like I was experiencing puberty for a second time...and my brows were way too thin!! And I was out of twenty dollars!

The first thing to do when preparing to tweeze your brows is to evaluate the shape of your brows and what you would like them to look like. If you naturally have very thin brow work with that shape. The same applies if you have naturally full brows. Thin over tweezed brows are not complementary to every face shape. You want your brows frame your face and bring out your eyes.



Next brush your brows upward and trim any hairs that extend above the brow bone (the bone that your brows sit on). Then brush your brows upward and outward. If you have a curly hair texture, your brows maybe this way as well, so use a little brow gel to hold them in place (Maybelline makes an excellent brow gel for only 5 bucks!!). With your concealer, trace out the desired shape of your new brow(make sure to trace underneath the brow..called the underscore of the brow). MAC has these convenient little concealer sticks that look like chunky pencils. I love these!! Remove all the hair that the concealer is on. It may be easier to locate the hairs that need to be removed, if you use a concealer that is one to two shades lighter than your foundation. Once all the hairs have been removed, remove the concealer and evaluate your new shape. If there are any gaps, grab an angled brush and fill in. Please whatever you do.....DONT USE BLACK!!!! Ewww.....Elvira is not the intended look. If you have blonde hair try a very light brown or cement colored shadow or brow pencil, if you are a red-head try a camel colored shadow, brunettes try a dark brown. African American women with darker skin tones, should try a deep brown like espresso. I will list my favorites for each below. I have posted a before and after picture of Kevyn Aucoin's sister after he tweezed her brows....this is the G rated version....lol. There are also little illustrations to help guide you.

Before the Tweeze After the tweeze

I hope you can see the difference. Removing the excess hairs created more space between her eye and brow, which opened her eyes up.

1. Evalaute the shape of your brows. Hold a pencil vertically next to your nose so that you can see where your brows should begin. Next move the pencil to in about a 35 degree angle to see where they should peak (or where you arch should be. Finally extend the pencil another 20 degrees to see where they should taper off.







2. If you have hair that extends past where the pencil starts, tweeze them. When tweezing, grab the hair at the root and quickly remove it in the direction that the hairs grow. When filling in the brow, make sure to use short hair-like strokes to get the most natural looking brow. Once your finish, your brows should look nice and uniform. Don't worry if you don't get it right on the first try...Rome wasn't built in a day. Keep practiciing!! If you really need a little more help visit your local beauty counter and get someone to help you. Or get your brows waxed and shaped, then just maintain them by tweezing the hairs that grow in.

Try these Brands for Brow Pencils and Shadow

1. For Blondes...
Lingering Brow Pencil by MAC
Cement Eyeshadow by Bobbi Brown
Beguile Brow set by MAC
Blonde Brow Set by Bobbi Brown (brow gel that deposits color)


2. Brunettes/African Americans
Stud Brow Pencil by MAC
Spiked Brow Pencile by MAC
Espresso Shadow by MAC
Mahogany shadow by Bobbi Brown
Cork Eyeshadow by MAC
Show off Brow Set by MAC (brow gel that deposits color)
Girl Boy Brow Set by MAC (copper colored brow gel)


3. Red Heads
Taupe brow pencil by Bobbi Brown
Texture Eyeshadow by MAC
Camel eyeshadow by MAC

The Big Apple

Happy Thursday Everyone!!!

Don't you just love the feeling after a good workout? You look good and feel great. I love it when I look in the mirror afterwards, and I have this cute little glow on my cheeks. There is a way to look like this always with a little hint of blush added to the apple of the cheek. Just smile and take a blush brush and pop it on. It literally takes 5 seconds. Blush is a way to give your skin a quick little glow and uplift. Just take a look at Kiya(right). She looks like she just stepped off a trendmill in a pretty, polished sort of way. I posted these photos up just so you can see, when applied correctly the difference blush can make.

I have seen women walking around with red faces from blush being applied incorrectly. Blush should be applied on the apple of the cheek. To find the apple of your cheek, just smile and the protruding area is your apple. Once you locate your apple, take the blush brush and lightly dip it into the blush. Next, starting at the apple apply the blush in a backward (toward your hairline), downward motion. This will ensure that your blush looks the most natural. My favorite formulation of blush is cream blush. Most women look at the consistency of cream blush and cringe. It looks goopy!!! Cream blush is the most natural looking blush. It gives a glow that seems to come from within and can double as lipcolor. It works wonders on dry skin, but can be used on oily girls too (especially in the winter when oily girls seem to get a bit drier). Apply cream blush with fingers or a brush in the same manner as powder blush, just be sure to work the product into the skin. The result should be a glow that seems to come from the inside!! Above is a picture of Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Velvet Plum (this color looks lovely on darker skin tones) and Cargo Powder blush in Coral Beach (this imparts a pretty peachy glow). L'oreal HIP also makes an excellent cream blush that dries down to a powdery finish in a variety of colors that won't break the bank. Check your local drugstore or Target.

Color selection is based solely on personal preference. I believe almost anyone can wear any color. It just depends on application. If you want to wear NARS Exhibit A (which I do from time to time), go ahead!!! Just make sure you use a blush brush (not the brush that comes in the packaging...invest in a brush blush) to lightly apply until the desired color is obtained. Don't be afraid to try a color on if it looks to bright in the packaging. It is important to remember that once the product goes on, it will go on diffused and will not look nearly as bright on you. Never judge a Blush by its color. Sometimes when I am in the market for a new blush and I want a little help picking one out, I will ask the beauty advisor. I do not like it when the first thing they pick up is a color in the plum family. As a woman of color with darker skin, we always get thrown into the plum box. They look wonderful on, but don't be afraid to try bright colors as well. The only exception to this rule is if you want to cover redness on the cheek area. To apply a red toned or pinky blush would just make the redness more obvious. Instead opt for a bronzer. Blush goes on smoother, more intense, and last longer if there is some type of foundation, tinted moisturizer, or primer applied underneath. Well, tomorrow is Friday and that means I will be spending a couple of hours in Sephora and at various beauty counters testing new products. I can't wait!!!

Remember*** Blush is about application technique...not so much color!!!
I also wanted to wish Rhonda and very happy Geburtstag!!!!

My Lipgloss is Poppin'!!!

Swimming three times a week can really take a toll on the beauty regimen...Normally, after getting out of the pool, I slather on my Bobbi moisturizer, a little tinted moisturizer, and gloss. I'm not speaking of the overly shiny, I just ate a bucket of Popeyes gloss, but you know.....like I just licked my lips a little. They glisten.

This post is dedicated to all the gloss gals. In speaking to a few my friends, I have come to realize that their main beauty staple is gloss. Especially one particular friend, who no matter how many times we go to Target together, she always leaves with the same caramel colored gloss. To see the smile on her face, one would think that she just got the new Billy B. brush set...LOL. I can always predict which gloss she will choose....the brown one. It boggles my mind how we get so set in our beauty routine, that we actually go out to purchase a million different brands of glosses all in the same color family. I love gloss....in fact it was my first obsession with makeup. Every friday when I got my allowance, I would go to the Big Bee drugstore and get a new lipgloss. I especially used to love the push up kind that covergirl came out with. Never in the same color though!! I always tried to diversify my lipgloss collection.

Gloss is a great way to try a red, bright pink, or a coral that you thought you might be too dark or light for(I hate those sayings). My favorite red gloss is the MAC lustreglass in Venetian. It gives you a hint of color...just enough so you can imagine what you would look like if you had the lipstick on. Plus it still give you the shine of a gloss. I pair it with Currant/deep red liner...I look so nice and 50's but with a modern glossy finish!! I usually reserve the red lip for special occasions, like the Red Carpet, Dates, etc. Now on a day that I'm feeling girlie, I love hot pinks!!! Makeup Forever has this nice hot pink in Candy Rose that gives medium color payoff, but not overwhelming. I love hot pinks and coral in the summertime!! It's goes with the weather. I swear Christian Dior has the longest lasting gloss that I have ever tried!! I can go for hours and not touch up!

Gloss is an excellent way for you to step a couple of feet outside of your comfort zone when it comes to color. Never go by how the gloss looks inside the tube. Once it goes on your lips the color becomes more diffused. Using a darker or lighter liner will also change the color. I almost always mix atleast two different colors to get that perfect color. So...don't limit yourself when it comes to picking formulations or colors...and always remember to exfoliate lips before applying gloss. Try to have a variety of colors!!!! Play around and have fun!! The Drug store is always a good place to start. Loreal HIP and Revlon make awesome gloss for only $7.

Try These Out:

1. Clinique Superbalm Moisturizing Gloss in Raspberry

2. Bobbi Brown in Bright Pink

3. Stila Lip Polish in Glaze

4. Cargo Lip Duo in Bora Bora

5. Nars Lipstain Gloss in Indian Red

Paint the Town Red!!!!

I hope everyone had a lovely weekend. I sure did!!! The Runway Africa show was on fire!!! The makeup was on point, the models were stunning, and the designers just put the icing on the cake. The makeup followed trend. Fresh, nude, pretty faces, and of course the always sexy smokey eye with a bold lip. The last scene was very tribal. The models came out with tribal markings. It was incredible!! Don't worry if you missed it....I will be posting pictures on Wednesday. By the end of the show, I wanted to scream at the top of my lungs...."I AM AFRICAN!!!"

I got a chance to sneak backstage to observe the products that the makeup artists were using to achieve such natural looks. What did I see? The new MAC paint pots in bare study, bronze and gold shadows, strobe cream to give the skin a nice radiant glow, and MAC studio mists foundation to even out skin, but still leaving it dewy. No one was using powder!!! The makeup artist explained that the object was to keep the skin looking "fresh, like real skin."

This brings me to the next topic of discussion....eye shadow base.

How many times have you spent an extra 20 minutes doing dramtic eye shadow only to find that by the end of the day, the shadow has done a hoodini or creased ? Go ahead...it's ok to raise your hand. I see it all to often. This is happening, because the oil on your eyelids have practically broken down your eyeshadow and caused it to crease. To eliminate this use a base. A base will act as a barrier against the oil. New technology in cream shadows make them an excellent choice to use as a base. Cream shadows are now long wearing and crease free!!! My favorites are the MAC paints, MAC paint pot (arrived on counter August), Bobbi Brown Cream shadow, and NARS Cream shadow. They come in a variety of colors. Using a base will also help you get a more intense color payoff. If you want to use a Jewel Blue eyeshadow, use a Jewel Blue base to get a long wearing, non-creasing, intense Jewel Blue color on your lids. Some artist like to use concealers as an eyeshadow base. I like this method only if I know the shadow will be on for a short period of time or if the person has dry eyelids. Using concealer underneath as a base for someone with oily eyelids is asking for trouble!! Chances are you have double the amount of oil on your eyelids than on your face. Concealer already contains some type of emollient, which is like adding fuel to an already burning fire. New cream shadows go on "wet" but dry down, so work fast! Apply a thin layer, because if applied to thick it can look clumpy. On those days, when you have to be to work at 8AM and you wake up at 7:30, cream shadows can be worn alone, with the quick stroke of your index finger. I love the Bobbi Brown cream shadows in Burnished, Suede, and Aqua. I also love the MAC paints (in the squeeze tube) in Graphito (perfect base for a smokey eye), Architecture, and Bamboo. NARS won the InStyle award for "Best Cream Shadow." For you gals who live out in areas where there aren't any MAC, Bobbi, Sephora, or Christian Dior counters....you can always go online.

Keep the lid on tight!!! They will dry out if not!! OK well, class dismissed. Remember to post if you have questions or want a particular topic discussed!!! Have a Beautiful Monday !!!

Back to The Basics

Whew!!! I am exhausted. Trying to reshape your body after just relying on your metabolism to keep the weight off is kicking my butt. Instead of hitting the treadmill like most, I am opting for a low impact workout-swimming. This brings me to my next topic of discussion. It is a topic of mystery for most, leaving most women looking like they have floating heads or someone just painted their faces on. Get where this discussion is headed....? That's right foundation and concealer!!!! Many women are dead set against wearing it, because they are afraid of it. They don't know which shade is best, which formulation is best, and for some reason we feel that it makes us seem vain and artificial for wearing it. Foundation does not compromise your beauty. It enhances it. I am a BIG fan of the natural look (in fact, that is what I am known for), but I have seen some women walk around, and they would look so much better with a little concealer under the eye and foundation in certain areas.

Now here is the age old question....What is the difference between foundation and concealer?

The only difference between foundation and concealer is the concentration of pigment in the product. There is more pigment in concealer than in foundation. Foundations and concealers come in a variety of forms (i.e. liquids, powders, cream to powder, moisturizing, stick, cake, etc.). They also come in a variety of finishes. By finishes, I mean the final texture of the product once it dries down onto the skin (natural matte, satin matte, dewy, natural, radiant glow, pearlized, etc.).

For beauty makeup or day-to-day wear, the biggest mistake women make is applying foundation all over the face. This is a no-no!!! It will look like you have a floating head and too much foudation on. This will totally defeat the purpose of foundation, which is intended to make you look like you have beautiful, even, and healthy skin. The rule of thumb with foundation is to "Apply As Needed." I find that the most discolored areas are the cheeks, forehead, and undereye area. If you must apply all over, make sure that you blend the product past the jawline, so that there are not any demarcation lines. Also, the match. There is no reason (unless you are an actor or performer of some sort) should your foundation be five shades lighter. Trust me ladies....It looks HORRIBLE!! Be sure to purchase the correct shade of foundation, which is why I suggest making an investment by visiting your local department store. Unless you are an expert, don't pick up something out of the Target beauty aisle without testing it out in natural sunlight. In order for it to match perfectly, the foundation needs to have the correct undertone. In today's day and time, finding the right foundation should be a breeze. Many women of color have this problem...but with the right makeup artist (i.e. Myself) this should be a simple process. Below I have listed the pros and cons of a few different formulations of foundations.

1. Tinted Moisturizer-TM

This is a lighter version of foundation that is composed of more moisturizers than pigment. It provides a sheer coverage and imparts a radiant finish. Most even come with spf of atleast 15. I would recommend this IF you have pretty even skin. Some of my favorites are Becca Tinted Moisturizer, MAC, Laura Mercier, and Bobbi Brown Tinted Moisture Balm.

2. Liquid Foundation

No need to be afraid!!! This is one of my favorites. It is the next level up from tinted moisturizers. There are several different finishes when it comes to liquid foundation-matte, natural matte, dewy, etc. They come with atleast an spf of 15 and there are also moisturizing formulations for those with drier skin. The coverage is sheer to medium. To build this one up to a medium coverage, let the first layer dry then apply another. The only thing with liquid foundation is that once it dries onto the skin, the color darkens just a tad (not enough to notice).

My favorites are L'oreal HIP (works well on women of color), MAC studio fix fluid (matte finish), Armani, Makeup Forever, MAC Face and Body (very sheer coverage), and Bobbi Brown (oil free and moisturizing).

3. Cream to Powder

Most cream to powders come in that convient compact packaging with the cute little sponge underneath. Now as I have seen, many women use the sponge incorrectly. I am just down right against using sponges over and over. Why ? They breed bacteria. Think about it....the sponge goes from the compact to your face (which has bacteria), then back into your product, then back onto your face.....EWWW. Then, you get a lovely little visitor two weeks later right on the center of your forehead. Cream to powder foundation goes on as a creamy formula and VOILA!! It dries down to a matte finish. Ideal for the oily gal. The coverage is medium to full. I really only recommend a matte finish if you are extremely oily. I do not like the matte look, because real skin does not look overly matte. If you get oily throughout the day invest in oil blotting paper.

I don't really have any favorites in this category, but Bobbi Brown is introducing her new moisturizing compacts next week. MAC also makes a moistureblend foundation(sheer medium coverage).

4. Powder

This is probably my least favorite, because it isn't used correctly by the masses of women. Like the cream to powder foundations, it comes with a lovely little sponge for women to pack on the product. I can always tell when a women is wearing a powder foundation(i.e. MAC studio Fix), because it looks cakey and powdery. Powdered foundations give a matte finish. It has a medium to full coverage. This product is ideal for the oily gal. Before using this product make sure to moisturize and let your moisturizer sink in. If not, the product will become hard. But this is a BIG "no-no" if you have dry skin. It only serves to make you look drier. I know the packaging is convenient, but moisturing cream in compacts are readily available. Translucent powder is totally different than powdered foundations. Translucent powder "sets" your makeup (by set..think of it like saving your work). It ensures that you will not have to do very many touch ups throughout the day and absorbs excess oil. You only need to "powder" certain areas (under eye area to prevent concealer from creasing, forehead, and a little on the sides of the nose). If you have drier skin, very minimal powdering is necessary. The pigment concentration is minimal, so there isn't much coverage.

5. Cake and/or Stick Foundations

These are full coverage foundations that are very emollient. They glide over the skin effortlessly when "warmed up" (not in the microwave...but on the back of your hand). They provide a natural finish and is ideal for the gal that does not have skin like Beyonce. These can tend to feel heavier IF applied incorrectly. To thin out the product for a lighter feel, apply with a damp sponge or buffing brush. This is good for all skin types.

I love Bobbi Brown foundation stick, MAC studio Stick, Black Opal, and Laura Mercier.

6. Aerosol/Airbrush Foundation

This is a sheer to medium coverage foundation that must be sprayed on a secondary surface( a square of aluminum foil, petri dish, etc.). Do not spray this directly on the face. It has micronized mother of pearl particles that act as optical diffusers to soften fine lines, even complexion, and give an airbrushed finish. This is another one of my favorites, especially when working with models who have lovely skin. Aerosol foundations have buildable coverage. Apply one layer then apply another. They also come in bronzers as well. No powdering is necessary after this, unless that is the look you want to acheive.

My top picks are Christian Dior Airflash (excellent coverage, but only comes in lighter shades), Guerlain, and MAC studio mist.

Concealers come in the same formulations as foundations and give similar finish. Using concealer is encouraged only if you have dark circles to cover or an area that your foundation just isn't quite doing the job. For undereye concealer, I would recommend a color that is one to two shades lighter than your foundation. This is because you want highlight your undereye area and bring forth your eyes. Some cosmetic companies automatically adjust the corresponding concealer colors to a lighter one. It takes out the guess work. Please make sure to blend the foundation and concealer so that there are no lines. I find the most effective application is next to a window. Natural light highlights flaws, making it easy to identify where more blending is necessary. Now this is not to say that concealer can't be used as foundation and vice versa. Sometimes if I would like sheer coverage I use a sheer concealer under my eyes, cheeks and forehead.

Last but not least, who came first...the chicken or the egg???? Which comes first? Foundation or concealer? This is an age old debate. I adjust this technique accordingly. If I am doing a lighter concealer under the eye and I want to blend the two together, then I place the slighter darker foundation on top of the outer edges of the concealer. The effect is a natural transition of color. This is what I would suggest for you-adjust accordingly. Play around and see which technique works best for you.

Ok class this concludes our chapter on foundations and concealers. In the next chapter, we will discuss the proper tools to apply foundation and concealer. Any questions please feel free to post. And remember....Your makeup should look and feel like your second skin.

Attention !!! Achtung!!!

There is a runway africa show happening on Saturday, September 15th at the French Embassy here in DC. The show is going to be HOT!! The designers are phenomenal. Visit www.runwayafrica.com for information on tickets. I will see you there!!!

Don't forget to test your knowledge below on America's Next Top Model.